It took me a long time to get around to writing about Tel Aviv because I just couldn't quite pinpoint my feelings on the city.

It has taken me even longer to do so with Jerusalem, as my flash forward to Sweden may have led you on.

Our time in Jerusalem was short - about 24 hours - and right before Shabbat. I don't think I knew what to expect other than a history to rival my beloved Turkey.

What did I find when I went in with no expectations?

First of all, an understanding of the turmoil around this packed city. Within the city walls, you've got some of the most important religious sites for Christianity, Judaism and Islam. Some sites are even the same! You've got the Dome of the Rock built on top of the Western Walls. Because of this, the tensions run high all the time, but even more so on Fridays, the holy days for Judaism and Islam. As we walked the streets, there were barriers and police out to keep the peace. I thought it may have had something to do with Merkel's visit to the city which corresponded with our own visit, but haven been told that it's not unusual there. On our first night there, we wandered the city in the evening as it was lit up, providing a much more tranquil look at the city, even affording us the opportunity to walk right up to the Western Wall (as long as you didn't interrupt others prayers).


Secondly, it's truly a place of pilgrimage for people. I went because of the history, but so many people go for religion and to follow in the steps of the key religious figures. Many Christians follow Via Dolorosa (Way of Suffering) that is supposed to be the steps Jesus took with the cross, with the final ending point in the Church of the Holy Sepulchure where you can wait in line to kiss the area his body was washed or enter the building around his tomb. The holes in the walls are stuffed with tiny little notes and prayers, the floors worn soft from millions of people's treads to walk where Jesus walked, touch the ground he walked or even died on, and often times these relics are streaked with the tears of those making the pilgrimage.





















Every corner you turn there is something important, from a marker of the Dolorosa to a church where the last supper was held. And for some, it's probably awe-inspiring and emotional and reaffirming. For others, overwhelming and a bit distancing.


I wandered away from the religious sites to other places in the city walls - the markets with vendors pedaling nativity scenes or t-shirts, street stalls selling fresh fish, men enjoying a chat on the steps of a shop. These were familiar - these felt like home to me, taking me back to my days of Istanbul. I wandered the winding streets, losing myself, even in the calm of a quiet Friday morning , only to stumble out upon some important monument yet again. While Friday isn't the best day to visit because of the tensions and because the shops close, it also gives the city an eerie abandoned quality that you'll miss during the hustle and bustle of other days.


So as the calls to prayer beckoned and people rushed towards the mosques and synagogues, I slunk back out of Jerusalem to finish my time in Tel Aviv. Months later and I still can't quite figure out what I feel about it. People ask and my answer is vague - I guess the only thing to say is, you'll have to discover the city and your feelings on it for yourself.

When we looked at travel for 2014, Paul and I each chose a place that was top of our list to visit in 2014, along with some second and third options. My first trip selection was Jordan (and it's coming up soon!), Paul's was Israel. So, when a trip for work came up, we jumped at the opportunity to make a long weekend out of it.

I spent a few days in Tel Aviv before Paul doing work during the day, and some sight seeing by night. My first full day there, we ventured down to Old Jaffa to watch the sunset, then wandering along to the markets one evening before grabbing a bite to eat.

The next, we went a bit further out to Caesarea - a port town north of Tel Aviv that dates back to BCE. Originally established by Herod the Great, it's been ruled by Romans, Byzantines and Muslims, although it fell into disuse after attacks by the Mamluks, as the extensive fortifications from the sea were destroyed. While it seemed interesting, we got there about 30 minutes before closing so just had enough time to wander the ampitheathre and checkout the information video before being herded back out! Further down, you could see the hippodrome and ruins of some of the structures with a seaside view.

When Paul arrived for the weekend, I was excited to go exploring even more with him - checking out restaurants, marketplaces and sites.

The problem? Everything closes down on the weekend for Shabbat, which starts Friday afternoon and goes all through Saturday. So, Saturday, we did a quick (free) tour of the Bauhaus' outlining unique architecture in Tel Aviv, then joined in with the rest of the city and their Saturday pastime - the beach!

I was happy to soak up a few rays, read a book and relax, but Paul wanted to be like a local, which meant playing matkot. This is a bit like beach tennis with a ball and paddle. Since I'm not much of a tennis player, I wasn't much of a matkot player either making it boring for Paul and probably hilarious for watchers. We finally got into a groove with a few good volleys and decided to end on a high note.

Sunday, with the city back into the swing of a work week (as they work Sunday - Thursday), we headed out to catch a few market places and go to Old Jaffa again. It was much quieter at 10 am on a weekday, so we enjoyed some gelato as we did lots of people watching. The weather wasn't in our favour and it was overcast and grey. Instead of hitting the beach again, we decided to bike along the beach back to our hotel for one last view of the city. Just like in London, there was a great bike rental system and even better bike trails. Unlike London where you share the road with drivers, in Tel Aviv, you get a lane all to yourselves, with stoplights and all to make sure you yield to the walkers.


And then, we were off, back to London and, honestly a bit disappointed. I wanted to like Tel Aviv, but it just seemed like something was missing. Usually, I'm happy to find myself on a beach or near the water, anywhere in the world, but I had high expectations for Israel, expecting a quirky culture mixed in with history and beauty. Perhaps, I expceted too much and will always be disappointed, or perhaps, it was poor timing to come for only the slow weekend and another trip will reveal a side to Tel Aviv that is more in line with my first thoughts of the city. Who knows - I guess the only way I'll find out is through another visit, but this time, just not a Friday and Saturday.