Showing posts with label Anthony Bourdain. Show all posts

Rumeli Hisari

Over the last couple weeks, I have gotten the chance to knock a few more things off my Istanbul bucket list, including trying a hamam.

Another bucket list item to check off was Rumeli Hisari - we have seen in it from the water on Bosphorus cruises. And we've seen the signs pointing into the direction of the fortress, but never wandered there.

This weekend, we decided to hit two birds with one stone - check out Rumeli AND visit Kale Cafe, which both local friends and Anthony Bourdain recommended.

Rumeli Hisari was a fortress built by the Sultan Mehmed II when the Ottomans were trying to take Constantinople. It is right across from another Ottoman fortress built the century before, strategically located on the narrowest point of the Bosphorus .For being a fortress on the water, it was built pretty speedily - in 4 months time. It must have worked because the next year, the Ottomans took Constantinople.


Today, there isn't much to see in the fortress itself. You can walk along the walls for great views of the Bosphorus, see the ampitheatre with the one minaret that remains of the mosque. That's about it. In itself, it may not be worth a trip to this part of town for people further away.


But for us, it was close by and the breakfast at Kale Cafe made it worth the trip.  Traditional Turkish breakfast usually consists of tomatoes, cucumbers, tulum/feta cheese, olives and bread. And I love this breakfast. Add to it more types of cheese - including fried cheese & cheese soaked in honey - traditional Turkish eggs (menemen), chai and delicious puffy bread and it gets even better. The idea is easy - you order breakfast and anything else you want on the side (hence the menemen). They come round every 10 minutes or so offering fresh chai and you can sit back, relax and enjoy the views of the Bosphorus bridge and waters.


No Reservations

Last Friday, we headed down to Taksim to get a final fitting on Paul's custom suit.  We had talked about trying out an Indian food place with friends, but after getting proded and measured, we trekked back out to find that it was snowy and windy again.  That put us in the mood for a nice fire inside, so we decided to hurry home.

On the way back, the guys were talking up a storm about "soggy burgers." Sounds appetizing, right? But, they swore they were much better than they sounded, so we ducked into what I expected to be a hole in the wall shop off Iskital in Taksim.

Kizilkayalar - home of the 'wet burger'

When we found the shop (close to the Metro station so we could still make our quick getaway), I still had that thought of hole in the wall.  There's the doner guy out front and a sign that says burgers.  You go inside and there are no tables, standing stools only and no cash register, just a guy walking around taking orders, handing out food and taking up money.  Apparently, there are two options, doners or 'soggy burgers.' I go for the soggy burger.

After taking my 2tl burger (sweet! it's like the dollar menu at McDonalds - same size too, so order a few burgers), I find a spot to stand out with a stool and a little bit of counter space.  I glance around while I eat and see right on the wall an article - it's Anthony Bourdain at this restaurant!

Me and Anthony, bonding over our shared love of wet burgers

After this, I no longer feel like it's a hole in the wall even if it is by some standards.  However, I can say, I felt pretty excited to have stumbled upon this little gem.  And the soggy burgers were pretty good too (note: apparently, the correct name is wet burgers, but I still like soggy burgers better).

New goal for 2012 (okay, my FIRST goal of 2012) - find more great Istanbul restaurants. I've been enjoying learning the art of cooking with all my new found time in my new Istanbul life, but with that, I have missed out on chances to explore my new city.  Hopefully by the time we get more visitors, we will have more of these great gems to take them too!