A Taste (& Smell) of Cambodia

20:11 Alyson 5 Comments

I still have so much to write about from this year - our trip to Cape Town, weekend jaunts from London, our anniversary staycation, moving into a new flat.

But that all can wait - while the sights, sounds and smells of our recent trip to Southeast Asia are still fresh in my mind, I'm jumping ahead!

Angkor Wat has always been one of the top items on my bucket list. With iconic pictures of the temple towers found everywhere from National Geographic to fellow bloggers, I couldn't get it out of my mind.

So when we made plans to travel to Thailand with friends, I knew that Cambodia was too close to not pay a visit to.

The day we arrived, we were greeted at the airport with a tuk-tuk driver to escort us back to our hotel and I knew that the city was going to be something different.  As it started raining (or more truthfully, pouring) on our drive into the city, I just had to laugh. The poor tuk-tuk driver rolled down some plastic flaps to keep us relatively dry, threw on a rain poncho and kept on driving.

Because we arrived in the afternoon, we decided to wait and tackle the temples on our next two days, and spend the afternoon acquainting ourselves with the city of Siem Reap. I wasn't sure what to expect - something like Sri Lanka? More like a small town in Turkey? A bustling tourist rip off?

To find out, we walked from our hotel rather than take the short tuk-tuk ride into town. We walked in the middle of the road, as the streets were without sidewalks and the sides of the road were lined with puddles, vendors selling you food and stray dogs basking in the sunshine after the rain. We crossed over to the river, dodging tuk-tuks filled with tourists, bikes with babies in laps or girlfriends riding the spokes or small trucks with fruits and people on the back.

We watched local 'crew' teams rowing their long thin boats easily through the water. Standby boats sat on the river's edge, getting a fresh paint of coat for their next journey.

Finally, we reached the hub of town - the local market. The outside is filled with tourist shops, trying to catch all the visitors as they walk on the small sidewalks (avoiding all the above obstacles in the road). After making a lap around the perimeter, we headed inside to see what else was on offer, and what deals we could have.  Inside the market, the sunlight is dimmed from the tightly packed interior. Shop owners nap in chairs waiting for patrons while kids play in the alleys.

In the very center of it all, you'll find everything you need for dinner. While you may have adjusted to the scent of exhaust on the walk outside, all of a sudden you find your nose attacked with scents of fish and fresh meat (which is horrifying to me), or more pleasant cooked meals like noodles. You'll walk down one aisle with chicken meat (legs and all), fish gutted down the middle and shell fish, to the next filled with vegetables.

We decided to embrace the adventurous spirit of the trip and grabbed a seat at one of the stands that was frying up something in a pan. With no idea what was on offer, we ordered two, then sat to eat it, taking all in.

On the way out, we bargained for a few goodies to bring home, then meandered to the less local Pub Street. I spotted American, English, Italian and even Mexican food. But the best reason to visit here - 50 cent beer and people watching.

After we decided jet lag had gotten the better of us and it was time for our $10 massages, we headed back to the hotel. Yet after just 3 or 4 hours, Siem Reap and Cambodia had awoke an excitement for a new place and experience, which I hadn't seemed to felt in the last few months. The buzz of the city, the kindness of the people, the smells and the sites made it a place that felt real and authentic, in spite of the thousands of people that trek through each year. So much of the atmosphere reminded of what I loved about Istanbul (only without the Bosphorus), making me excited to see what else Cambodia had in store for us. 

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Notting Hill: Recipease

15:27 Alyson 6 Comments

Every time I get off the tube at Notting Hill Gate, I pass Recipease. When we were living in Notting Hill, that happened ALOT.

At first, I didn't pay much attention, then I looked at it some and chalked it up to be a kitchen goods store.

For my birthday this year though, I learned the truth of Recipease. It is partly a kitchen goods store, but even more so, it's Jamie Oliver's store that hosts cooking lessons! Paul surprised me with a voucher for a class and once I found out the real secret of it, I couldn't wait to give it a shot.

They offer lessons in all kinds of things. Steaks, street food, kids lessons, but I decided upon homemade pasta. I love pasta and Italian food, so I figured it was the perfect time to figure out how to make it at home.



The day of the class, Paul and I had a mad dash to the shop (I may have been sick and napping away through my alarm!) but we made it just in time to wash up and don our aprons. They put a maximum on the attendees to ensure there are enough work stations and that the teacher can ensure you're learning what you're doing.

We were going to be making a few different types of stuffed pasta - this one focused only on the pasta, not the sauce, although they do have another class that teaches both.  We were making ravioli, tortellini and bow-tie pasta. The instructor started off by explaining it all to us and I was amazed at how easy it was! Flour and egg, voila, you have pasta dough!

Next comes the hard part - we rolled out the dough, then fed it through the pasta press several times, each time tightening up the rolls, to make sure we got it as thin and compact as we could. Once we had our strips, we set about cutting them up into the right size and there was even a fancy cutter that helped get those cute serrated edges you see on ravioli.

After we've got our perfect cut-outs, we set to filling them with ricotta, spinach and lemon. Not too full, or they fall apart in the cooking, and then we squish up the edges to seal them up.

As we drop the pasta in water (just a quick 2-3 minutes until they rise to the surface), we also start on our sauce. Simply butter, lemon and mint to give us a rich, if not too unhealthy, topping for our pasta.

So after 1 hour (mostly due to our learning than the length of the task) and we were done, kicking up our feet with a glass of wine and a plate of our delicious creations.


Despite the simplicity of it, I haven't quite yet tried this at home since I don't have a pasta roller, but perhaps I'll find one in my stocking for Christmas?!

6 comments:

40 and counting

16:30 Alyson 0 Comments

When I landed in Cambodia, I reached a major milestone in my travels.

Cambodia was my 40th country to add to the map.

I'm not a die hard country counter; some places have so much to offer, I've gone back and visited many places throughout.  My love affair with Italy is a good example.

But, I do also enjoy visiting new countries to learn new cultures, languages, history, as well as see something new along the way.

As I've visited almost all of mainland Europe now, I'll probably get fewer new countries on my map (although I've got a few Eastern Europe trips in the works for next year). And that's okay with me.  As long as I'm enjoying my travels, it doesn't really matter where you are, right?

After this feat, I decided I needed to re-work my travel map. Check it out on the Where in the World tab to see if I've visited your favourite countries!

 

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The Tower of London Remembers

21:47 Alyson 0 Comments

2014 marks 100 years since the start of WWI - in the UK, there have been lots of events, books, television reminding us of the impact it had. With no living veterans left, it's up to us to pass along the histories, stories and memories of those who lived or battled through it.

For the last two years, 11/11 (Armistice Day or also Remembrance Day) is observed around the city with people wearing poppies in remembrance.  This year, while many still pinned a poppy to their lapels, there was also a special exhibit to commemorate the centennial.

In a new take on poppies, the Tower of London hosted the exhibit Blood Swept Lands and Seas of Red. This art installation featured 888,246 ceramic poppies, each one representing a British fatality.



The exhibit was special as 8,000 people volunteered to get these poppies in place around the moat of the Tower of London, meaning weeks of preparation up to Remembrance Day. People could stop by throughout this period, watching the sea of poppies grow and take shape, spilling out of a window, or jumping over the bridge. 

I went today, early to beat the worst crowds, to take in the scenery in it's completion.

It was overwhelming in so many ways. First, it's breathtaking in it's beauty. The right red poppies constrasting to the green grass and grey stone. Even poppies that look the same have been crafted to give movement within them, some rising up out of the mass, others falling back, hovering beneath the shade of taller poppies.

Second, it's scale is startling. When you think of them as poppies, it is so many. When you think of them as lives lost, it puts into perspective the vast loss of human life - just from one country. Around the globe, with 16 million fatalities, this makes up an even smaller percentage. It's staggering and a stark reality of the consequences of war. 

I'm so glad I took the chance to stop by and visit this special monument. Over the next few weeks, the installation will be dismantled, poppies sold off (with proceeds benefitting Veteran associations) and life will return as normal to the Tower of London.  So now, all that's left is for us to remember.


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