Showing posts with label Northern Lights. Show all posts

Arctic Circle in Sweden

Last year, we were lucky enough to catch the Northern Lights during our weekend trip to Iceland.

This year, with friends going to Iceland to try to see the lights, I realised once was not enough. I needed more! There's something about the whole experience - the gambling of it all, the feeling of waiting out in the cold with hope abounding, the moment of let down or excitement. Plus, our experience in Iceland, while amazing, I felt could have been more if we would have been further from the lights of the city and especially from the tour bus of others chasing the same lights.

So, I set out to plan a trip to take us away from the city and up into the Arctic Circle to chase the lights yet again.

After some research online, I found out about Abisko National Park in Sweden. It was described as having it's own microclimate where it's usually clearer than the surrounding areas. It also said that if you stay 3 nights, there's an 80% chance to see the lights, and you can visit the sky station there which specialises in tracking the lights and providing an idea platform for seeing them.

Since it's a national park, it's not exactly the easiest to get to though and it's certainly lacking the usual hotel options that you would find somewhere like Reykjavik.  We left work on Thursday to start our trek - first into Stockholm, with a night at the airport hotel, then up and at them first thing next morning to Kiruna in the north. We had a short stopover in Kiruna for shopping and "sightseeing" (more to come on this!) then hopped on the 90 minute train ride north to Abisko.

 
We stayed at the Abisko Touristation, a mixture of "hotel" rooms and hostel rooms and conveniently located a 2 minute walk from the train station and a 15 minute walk down to the lake.  Around us is nothing but the outdoors and a few roads where cars occasionally passed by which double as roads for snowshoers and skiiers at other times.

 
We arrived in the afternoon and started to think about trying to see the Northern Lights that evening. We couldn't get tickets to the sky station, so we decided we would walk down on the paths towards the lake to try and glimpse them.  We took a nap and set our alarms for 10 pm to suit up and head out.

When we were awoken by the alarm, we looked out the window to find not clear skies, but a snow flurry. After several weeks without snow, a big storm hit the northern part of the country meaning no visibility and no Northern Lights. We got up a few times throughout the night to see if our luck had changed, but each time we were sorely disappointed.

The next day, we woke up to a veritable winter wonderland. It was beautiful, especially after our exceedingly warm winter in the UK, I realised how lovely a winter landscape can be.  We enjoyed a day outdoors, despite the winds and continuing snow.

 
That evening, we decided to give the Northern Lights another go. Again, we took a nap, set our alarm for 10 when it was scheduled to clear up, and set our minds to the fact that we'd stay outside to catch them until 1 am.

It was hard to force ourselves out of the warm bed into the cold when the alarm went off, but we piled on all our layers and treked down to the lake to get a prime watching spot. We walked along the paths lit only by the moonlight and it was deserted out. When we finally came to the lake, after a few trips and stumbles on icy patches, we found a few other small groups with the same mindset as us. We set up our tripod and camera, got out the blanket and thermos of hot chocolate, then hunkered down to wait for the show.

Slowly but surely, the others who were waiting left to head back to the warmth until it was us and one other small group of 3 people. Around 11:45, we saw some traces of the Northern Lights, but they didn't put on an act for us and disappeared behind the clouds again. As the time went on, the sky continued to get more cloudy and at 1 am, our bodies were craving warmth and sleep, so we gave up and realised we were going to be in the 20% to miss the lights.

 
While I'm disappointed we didn't see them, we still enjoyed our time in Sweden and filled it with days outdoors and activities I had never tried, and will likely never get the opportunity to do again. I knew we were lucky last year in Iceland, but this just highlighted how lucky we were on our first trip and the unpredictable nature of weather. I know my chase of the Northern Lights isn't over yet, so looking forward to figuring out where I may see them next!

Chasing the Northern Lights

I knew I wanted to see the Northern Lights sometime in my lifetime. Paul and I had talked about heading up to Sweden or Norway, but a deal popped into my inbox for a Northern Lights Tour in Iceland, and there it was. Our trip to chase the Northern Lights.

Let me preface this by saying that I had way too high of expectations. I did not really think much about NOT seeing the lights. I just made the assumption that we would, and went ready to go, with my camera, tripod and camera settings prepared for capturing the lights.

When we arrived into Iceland, we went the first night to try and spy the infamous lights.  Our driver warned us that they hadn't been seen much over the last couple of weeks.

What?! I may not see Aurora Borealis? 

Well, I started to get anxious.

We drove about 30 minutes outside of the city, in the cold, cold of Iceland (although they would tell you it was warm for winter!) and stood there for 30 minutes.

No lights. Now I'm really starting to get anxious.

Other people say they see the lights. I say they are crazy. Or are they. My eyes start to play tricks on me and I think I see things dancing around.

Then I finally see them. They had been there the whole time, not as vivid to the naked eye as pictures, but hiding behind the stars. You can start to pick up the movements, subtle, but there, flickering, appearing, disappearing.


Finally, after 1.5 hours, my toes are freezing and the lights seem to be subsiding. Its midnight, which means the tour is up. I head back to the bus, only to turn right back around because the lights are putting on a show!

This was truly what you expect to see of the lights. Jumping, dancing, moving about in swirling lines. It was mesmerising and all across the sky. I felt awed and so lucky that despite all the odds, we saw the Northern Lights on our first night.


Apparently, March is a good month for the lights - who knows exactly why besides the scientists. We went to the beach on our last night in town, just hoping for a peek behind all the city lights.

And there they were again, waving us goodbye.

Wanting to capture the lights yourself? Here's what you'll need:

1. A camera where you can adjust the ISO, aperture and shutter speed. A DSLR would be great, but some point and shoots have this now
2. A tripod - you REALLY need a tripod. If it has longer legs, great, then you don't have to squat to deal with the camera

You can find tons online about the best settings to use on a camera. I personally used a 3.5 F-Stop, 800 ISO and 30 second shutter speed. If you have a lower F-Stop OR higher ISO, you can reduce the shutter speed. Make sure you get it all ready before you leave because you'll never know when the lights will appear!