The Ancient City of Petra
I don’t really keep a formal
bucket list of world travels, although I probably should. And if I had been,
for the last 3 years, Petra would have been at the very top. While in Turkey,
we never went despite the close proximity. And finally, after over 2 years
overseas, I found myself there.
I was a bit worried that I’d be
disappointed, like we were with Israel. With such high expectations, it’s easy
to feel let down by the weight of your aspirations for a place.
And yet, my expectations were
exceeded even! While parts of Petra could be a let down, with crowds of people
all herded down the main road towards the site, avoiding giant clumps of horse
and donkey droppings along the way, other parts were spectacular.
The first day, we arrived in the
afternoon but decided to visit anyways. With it only being 5 more JOD per
person for the second day, it was worth it even for a few hours. We made the long trek down the siq to the
treasury, with many heading the opposite direction toward the exit after a long
hot day around the site. The Treasury,
the most famed and photographed portion of the site was still crowded with
tourists, so we grabbed a quick glance, then continued on with plans of coming
back early the next day.
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As we wandered, we came across
some nearly unmarked steps leading up into the mountain, and after seeing a
couple coming down, decided to follow the steps up to wherever they lead, which
even with a map we weren’t certain of.
We climbed and climbed, taking some stops to allow me to catch my breath
and drink some water. We didn’t pass many tourists, although we did pass some
local Bedouins, some hawking goods, others simply playing with children or
piping a tune on a lute. It felt a bit like stepping back in time. When we
finally found ourselves at the top, we realised we had stumbled upon the walk
to the High Altar. In addition to the altar, it afforded fantastic views over
the colonnade below. We watched the other tourists, like little ants
following a trail, and gave our legs a rest before heading back down and to our
hotel.
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Only perhaps an eighth of the way up to the top |
The next day we had big plans. I
had so much I wanted to see and to see before the crowds! The park opens at 6,
so we made sure we were there by 6:45 (it was a vacation after all). We were
nearly alone on our walk into the siq, before the buses came and dropped off
the crowds, and got a great view of the treasury coming in. The next thing to tackle, before it got too
hot, was the Monastery. This is another of Petra’s long walks, all the way to
the far end of the site. An hour walk and 800 steps up, some people pay for
donkeys to get them to the top, but we chose the old fashioned way. There isn’t
much to see on the way up, so other than a few quick stops, we powered our way
through. We arrived just as the sun was peeking out from behind the monastery – not
great for photos, but it made for a breathtaking site.
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For the afternoon we headed back down
the main road, which was in its heyday was wamped by markets and town halls. Now, it’s
still a main thoroughfare, perhaps not quite as full of the hustle and bustle
of its past, but still busy with tourists and vendors selling magnets, scarves
and little camels. We had lunch on the hill next to some of the old churches,
then went up towards the hillside tombs. Before we got there, we found yet
another set of steps leading up, just to the left of the first tomb. So, our
spirit of adventure high, Paul convinced me to make the climb despite my tired
legs. He had to remind me throughout the climb that it would be worth it. We
made it to what we thought was the top, only to find more climbing ahead of us.
Finally, we were at our finish, all alone, enjoying stunning views down onto
the treasury. With no one to block our views, no one to hassle us for horse
rides, we spent some time taking it all in and amazing at what you can find
just off the beaten path.
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The tombs |
After finishing up our day in
Petra, we grabbed some food then wandered back to Petra in the evening one last
time. The part I had been most excited about was Petra by Night – as they light
up the Siq and Treasury with candles, it seems a bit like it would have been
thousands of years ago before electricity and tour buses. Unfortunately, they
don’t do any crowd control, so we found ourselves herded through the Siq with
250 other people. While the scene was still eerie, the ambiance wasn’t as
tourists talked through the Bedouin music and afterwards played with the candle
bags til they caught fire and burned out. Paul and I hung around waiting for
that final moment of silence before being ushered out by the staff and back on
our way.
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While I wish my final impression
of Petra was more magical, I still loved my time exploring the city. It has
something for everyone; history, geogology, nature, architecture and the mystery of an old time. It
certainly deserved its spot on the top of my bucket list and hopefully it’s
made the top of some of yours!
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